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Kanchenjunga National Park
Access to the heart of Kanchenjunga National Park, including the vast Zemu Glacier, is generally only permitted to mountaineering expeditions or experienced trekking parties. Many peaks are off limits because they are regarded as sacred; climbers have always stopped short of the very top of Kangchenjunga for this reason.
Gezing
The road from Legship leaves the river and ascends high up above the village for 15 km to Gezing. On Friday, villagers from outlying regions bring their produce into town and a colourful and busy market dominates the main square. Traveller's cheques can be exchanged at the Central Bank of India, down a lane behind the town square.
Jorethang
Set in the forested Rangeet Valley, the pleasant market town of Jorethang lies 30 km north of Darjeeling. Across the river in West Bengal is Naya Bazaar.
Pelling
Pelling is perched high on a ridge, 2.5 km from Pemayangtse Gompa, and is rapidly developing into a Bengali hill resort. There are great views north to Kanchenjunga and also to the south when the weather is clear.
Khechepari Lake
Pronounced 'catch a perry', and sometimes spelt Khechepari, Khecheopairi or Khechupherei, this place is a popular objective for trekkers. The sacred lake lies in a depression surrounded by prayer, flags and forested hills.
Phodong
Phodong Gompa, north of Gangtok along a winding but largely tarmac road, belongs to the same order (Kagyupa) as Rumtek, but is much smaller and less ornate than that gompa. The gompa sits high up above the main road to Mangan and there are tremendous views down into the valley below.
Phodong is a fairly recent structure, although the original gompa here was founded, like Rumtek, in 1740.
Yumthang Valley
The Yumthang Valley lies 140 km north of Gangtok, at an elevation of 3564m. This region has recently been opened to foreigners, but trekking is still prohibited. The best time to visit is in April and May, when the rhododendrons are in full bloom. There are hot springs, covered by a wooden shelter.
Rumtek Gompa
Rumtek, on the other side of the Ranipul Valley, is visible from Gangtok though it's 24 km away by road. This huge and wealthy monastery is the seat of the Gyalwa Karmapa, the head of the Kagyupa order of Tibetan Buddhism.
Tsongo Lake
Foreigners have recently been permitted to visit this lake (also known as Changu Lake), which is 35 km north-east of Gangtok; technically you should be in a group of four, and need to join a tour. Permits are valid for a day visit only.
Yuksom
Yuksom (also spelt Yoksum and Yuksam), 35 km by road from Pemayangtse, is the farthest north you can get by road in West Sikkim and is the trailhead for those intending to trek to Dzongri. It's a very peaceful village surrounded by cardamom plantations on a wide shelf above the valley of the Rathong.
Dubdi Gompa
An hour's walk uphill from Yuksom, was the first capital of Sikkim, and was where the first monarch of Sikkim was crowned in 1641. It's worth a visit (if you can brave the leeches), but there are no monks here and it's only opened during special Buddhist festivals. The police check permits at the start of the Dzongri to Goecha La trek, so don't try setting off without.
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